Author Topic: Sunny 16 Rule (Read 40629 times)

sapata · « **on:** June 14, 2011, 08:04:46 PM »

I know some people here has been doing this already, but this is the first time I left my lightmeter at home and decided to do a test using the sunny 16 rule http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunny_16_rule.

I'm actually quite impressed of how it worked... will use again for sure!

Salex 6x4.5 Camera - Fuji Across - Rodinal stand development

Chalky · « **Reply #1 on:** June 14, 2011, 08:27:44 PM »

Good work. I often use sunny 16 but struggle in overcast conditions. Nice pics.

jojonas~ · « **Reply #2 on:** June 14, 2011, 09:12:26 PM »

yeah these are good, nice going!

I use sunny 16 myself and think it's easy with sunny, partly overcast and light overcast (easy with hard, soft and no shadows). I struggle with getting exposures right for shades and indoors but I try to get better

Francois · « **Reply #3 on:** June 14, 2011, 09:58:19 PM »

Just get an Expomat calculator (free).

I use one quite often and it works fine for a piece of cardboard

sapata · « **Reply #4 on:** June 14, 2011, 10:31:20 PM »

I think this is a good starting point and we can only improve from there, even with the worst light conditions. I guess the more we use the more we understand the rule and obviously get better.

Quote from: Francois on June 14, 2011, 09:58:19 PM

Just get an Expomat calculator (free).

I use one quite often and it works fine for a piece of cardboard

I'll have a look at that as well Francois... in the mean time I have a scan from the inside picture guide of the Kodacolor Gold box uploaded in my mobile phone.

Francois · « **Reply #5 on:** June 14, 2011, 11:09:42 PM »

I seem to remember there was an app for the iPhone that turned it into a light meter...

This is the ExpoMat link
http://expomat.tripod.com/

And the Ambertation Lightmeter for iPod
http://www.ambertation.de/en/lightmeter

Terry · « **Reply #6 on:** June 14, 2011, 11:50:41 PM »

That Salex looks pretty good!

calbisu · « **Reply #7 on:** June 15, 2011, 07:30:26 AM »

I purchased the ambertation lightmeter for the iphone and it works well, but is quite a slow process... so I do not use it much, well not at all, but I guess that in an emergency situation it will come handy. I mostly always use the same film, Kodak Tmax 400, and I know that in bright days is about 1/500 f.8, so from that starting point I made my own calculations... I also play a lot with the lightmeter trying to guess what is the correct exposure... few more years and I will be pretty good at

Francois · « **Reply #8 on:** June 15, 2011, 03:09:36 PM »

Quote from: calbisu on June 15, 2011, 07:30:26 AM

I purchased the ambertation lightmeter for the iphone and it works well, but is quite a slow process... so I do not use it much, well not at all, but I guess that in an emergency situation it will come handy.

Good thing to know. I was expecting it to be somewhat better than this...

Mojave · « **Reply #9 on:** June 15, 2011, 05:05:34 PM »

You all amaze me! I cant live without a light meter, except when Im shooting the Holga.

Alan · « **Reply #10 on:** June 15, 2011, 05:24:09 PM »

i have been meaning to run a roll of film using the Sunny 16 Rule,
seems simple enough, just a matter of getting used to your setup
and film and how it reacts to the settings.

its hard to leave the meter in the bag or at home

next roll im trying the rule for sure, it would be nice to shoot without
the meter!

sapata · « **Reply #11 on:** June 15, 2011, 06:56:13 PM »

Quote from: Mojave on June 15, 2011, 05:05:34 PM

I cant live without a light meter, except when Im shooting the Holga.

That was me until two days ago...

Quote from: aoluain on June 15, 2011, 05:24:09 PM

i have been meaning to run a roll of film using the Sunny 16 Rule,
seems simple enough, just a matter of getting used to your setup
and film and how it reacts to the settings.

its hard to leave the meter in the bag or at home

next roll im trying the rule for sure, it would be nice to shoot without
the meter!

You should definitely try! I had been meaning to do that for so long and I'm glad I finally tried.

I reckon the Iphone ap wouldn't really be useful for me since I've already got a lightmeter. The other reason I want to get used to the rule is because I'd like to have more freedom when photographing and just concentrate on my shots.

What I do have in my phone is this graphic I found on the web which I will memorize. In fact, if anyone has the inside signs of the Kodak Gold box I'd really apreciatte a hi-res scan... I'll make a Tshirt (inspired by Francois "Smena" camera T shirt)

MattB · « **Reply #12 on:** June 15, 2011, 08:44:00 PM »

i will try this rule next time I'm out shooting

Francois · « **Reply #13 on:** June 15, 2011, 10:24:47 PM »

Quote from: sapata on June 15, 2011, 06:56:13 PM

What I do have in my phone is this graphic I found on the web which I will memorize. In fact, if anyone has the inside signs of the Kodak Gold box I'd really apreciatte a hi-res scan... I'll make a Tshirt (inspired by Francois "Smena" camera T shirt)

Well, if you need a better one, just let me know

This one is from a Gold 200 box

sapata · « **Reply #14 on:** June 15, 2011, 10:37:30 PM »

Thank you so much Francois! The size is great... funny it has more squares than the 100 ISO

Francois · « **Reply #15 on:** June 15, 2011, 10:47:44 PM »

Quote from: sapata on June 15, 2011, 10:37:30 PM

funny it has more squares than the 100 ISO

Kodak probably think it's more versatile... just imagine the graph inside the Gold 400 boxes

tkmedia · « **Reply #16 on:** June 15, 2011, 11:44:55 PM »

Let me guess. Your gonna print this upside down on a shirt so you can reference it easier?

sapata · « **Reply #17 on:** June 16, 2011, 12:43:02 AM »

How on earth I didn't think about that before!!

gary m · « **Reply #18 on:** June 16, 2011, 02:00:48 AM »

Fred Parker system here- Ultimate Exposure Computer http://goo.gl/tN8E

tkmedia · « **Reply #19 on:** June 16, 2011, 07:35:22 AM »

I lost my Sekonic and was relying on sunny 16 for the past couple of months. For "normal" ISO film I usually dont need a meter, but for complex scenes and higher speed films I often get confused doing too much math. That's why I found this for approx~ $30.

I also have an old meter for odd old cameras with 1/3, 1/5, 1/10, 1/25, etc shutter speeds.

Nigel · « **Reply #20 on:** June 24, 2011, 09:07:04 AM »

Quote

What I do have in my phone is this graphic I found on the web which I will memorize. In fact, if anyone has the inside signs of the Kodak Gold box I'd really apreciatte a hi-res scan... I'll make a Tshirt (inspired by Francois "Smena" camera T shirt) Cheesy

Sapata - that's a great idea, if you don't mind me stealing it I might do that as well?

Nigel

sethasaurus · « **Reply #21 on:** June 24, 2011, 04:29:19 PM »

The only light meter I used was this one: http://www.lungov.com/wagner/c/074c.html
Only because it's sleek and cool and doesn't need batteries

Actually, since I started shooting I havent used anything except an extinction meter for a few shots, otherwise I go by "Sunny 16". If I'm unsure, I'll shoot another frame plus or minus a stop.

One thing I tend to have trouble with is indoor light and snow scenes at night (where I underestimate the available light), but I'm still practicing!

sapata · « **Reply #22 on:** June 24, 2011, 06:50:00 PM »

Quote from: Nigel on June 24, 2011, 09:07:04 AM

Quote
What I do have in my phone is this graphic I found on the web which I will memorize. In fact, if anyone has the inside signs of the Kodak Gold box I'd really apreciatte a hi-res scan... I'll make a Tshirt (inspired by Francois "Smena" camera T shirt) Cheesy

Sapata - that's a great idea, if you don't mind me stealing it I might do that as well?

Nigel

That's cool Nigel...

and Francois scan is just what you need!

Quote from: sethasaurus on June 24, 2011, 04:29:19 PM

The only light meter I used was this one: http://www.lungov.com/wagner/c/074c.html
Only because it's sleek and cool and doesn't need batteries

Actually, since I started shooting I havent used anything except an extinction meter for a few shots, otherwise I go by "Sunny 16". If I'm unsure, I'll shoot another frame plus or minus a stop.

One thing I tend to have trouble with is indoor light and snow scenes at night (where I underestimate the available light), but I'm still practicing!

That's a quite unusual lightmeter ! I had never heard about before...

Francois · « **Reply #23 on:** June 24, 2011, 09:07:50 PM »

I must admit the shape is quite different from what we're used to seeing in extinction meters.

Francois · « **Reply #24 on:** June 24, 2011, 11:36:39 PM »

For what seems like an eternity, I've had in my camera bag a sheet of difficult exposure situations that I compiled from multiple sources (including Kodak).

The list can come in really handy for setting starting exposure points. You can print two on a sheet of paper, cut them out, fold them in half and have them laminated at Staples.

Since my list was in French, I made you an English version

The list is for 400 ISO film.

Enjoy!

euge... · « **Reply #25 on:** June 29, 2011, 11:01:57 PM »

Just following a link from the tripman site and found this.
http://www.redbubble.com/people/rool/t-shirts/4199260-sunny-16-rule-special-edition

euge... · « **Reply #26 on:** June 29, 2011, 11:07:50 PM »

and this
http://www.redbubble.com/people/rool/t-shirts/3114482-sunny-16-rule-black-inverted

sapata · « **Reply #27 on:** June 29, 2011, 11:48:46 PM »

Quote from: tkmedia on June 15, 2011, 11:44:55 PM

Let me guess. Your gonna print this upside down on a shirt so you can reference it easier?

Quote from: euge... on June 29, 2011, 11:07:50 PM

and this
http://www.redbubble.com/people/rool/t-shirts/3114482-sunny-16-rule-black-inverted

Ha!
done already...

Dave Elden · « **Reply #28 on:** July 02, 2011, 03:53:14 AM »

Quote from: Francois on June 24, 2011, 11:36:39 PM

For what seems like an eternity, I've had in my camera bag a sheet of difficult exposure situations that I compiled from multiple sources (including Kodak).

I have something similar, interestingly it includes settings for exposures ON the moon, not here on earth illuminated by the moon. 1/125 @ f11 using 40 - 64 ASA film apparently!
Includes the note that "Subjects would be details of the Moon's surface, people etc." People? Not sure when it was produced.

choppert · « **Reply #29 on:** July 02, 2011, 08:29:16 PM »

Quote from: Francois on June 24, 2011, 11:36:39 PM

For what seems like an eternity, I've had in my camera bag a sheet of difficult exposure situations that I compiled from multiple sources (including Kodak).

Burning buildings?

Isn't that a tad macabre?

Chops

Francois · « **Reply #30 on:** July 02, 2011, 08:34:46 PM »

Well... most of it was from Kodak.
But now you have 50% of Weegee's themes listed there

calbisu · « **Reply #31 on:** July 08, 2011, 06:17:45 AM »

Found this the other day and I think It's pretty accurate. I reduced some speeds and closed more the diaphragm as now I tend to shoot with reduced apertures.

ISO400 - Outside:
1/250 - f/11 - bright overcast or regular day
1/125 - f/11 - overcast (indistinct shadow)
1/125 - f/8 - heavy overcast (no shadow)
1/125 - f/8 - subject is in shade (light shadow)
1/60 - f/8 – sunset (heavy shadow)
ISO 400 - Inside:
1/60 - f/4 - bright fluorescent light
1/60 - f/4 - subject in window light
1/30 - f/2.8 - subject in brightly lit room (here I disagree, I would shoot 30/4, oook, is just one more step)

Kelly.ONeill · « **Reply #32 on:** July 18, 2011, 05:21:43 AM »

Hey guys I found these exposure cards for Kodak film in the case to a Signet 80 I got at a garage sale a week back. Thought you might find them interesting if not extremely useful

Francois · « **Reply #33 on:** July 18, 2011, 03:49:15 PM »

Pretty sweet... too bad they don't print these anymore...

sapata · « **Reply #34 on:** July 18, 2011, 05:08:03 PM »

This is awesome!
We're gathering a great amount of exposure charts!

Nigel · « **Reply #35 on:** July 18, 2011, 07:51:57 PM »

These are great I love the graphics, this could be the beginning of some sort of collection.

jojonas~ · « **Reply #36 on:** July 19, 2011, 07:26:05 AM »

Quote from: Nigel on July 18, 2011, 07:51:57 PM

These are great I love the graphics, this could be the beginning of some sort of collection.

I was just thinking the same thing myself

I'll have to rummage through my stuff to see if I can contribute with anything. I think I have atleast a solaris box lieing around.

Nigel · « **Reply #37 on:** July 31, 2011, 04:05:01 PM »

Probably the least useful diagram so far. Era 100 film.

Off-topic: What I don't understand is why with all the instructions in Chinese (fair enough it's a Chinese film), the list numbers 1., 2., 3. etc are European? Anyone?

sapata · « **Reply #38 on:** July 31, 2011, 07:42:18 PM »

Quote from: Nigel on July 31, 2011, 04:05:01 PM

Probably the least useful diagram so far. Era 100 film.

Off-topic: What I don't understand is why with all the instructions in Chinese (fair enough it's a Chinese film), the list numbers 1., 2., 3. etc are European? Anyone?

This is great Nigel!
I found funny the little caracters on the drawings... is the last one holding an umbrella?

sapata · « **Reply #39 on:** July 31, 2011, 07:49:38 PM »

This is my version of the Gakken Japanese Stereo Pinhole chart after my friend translated to me...

Nigel · « **Reply #40 on:** July 31, 2011, 08:20:59 PM »

Quote

This is great Nigel!
I found funny the little caracters on the drawings... is the last one holding an umbrella?

Yes, at first I thought it was a cloud with a stick coming out of it, but I think you're right it's an umbrella!

Alan · « **Reply #41 on:** July 31, 2011, 10:22:03 PM »

Here is one I got from an expired roll of phototec400 . . .

sapata · « **Reply #42 on:** July 31, 2011, 10:38:52 PM »

hmm... does Phototec has anything to do with Fuji?

Looks exactly the same as the Provia posted here...

Francois · « **Reply #43 on:** July 31, 2011, 10:54:29 PM »

Quote from: Nigel on July 31, 2011, 08:20:59 PM

Quote
This is great Nigel!
I found funny the little caracters on the drawings... is the last one holding an umbrella?

Yes, at first I thought it was a cloud with a stick coming out of it, but I think you're right it's an umbrella!

Could also have been a guy getting hit by lightning... then again, maybe not...

Alan · « **Reply #44 on:** July 31, 2011, 10:55:10 PM »

dont think so.

"For Technical Support Contact:
Paterson Group International . . ."

on the box it goes on to say for developer use

Phototec Unitol . . .

or

Paterson Aculux II, FX-39 . . .

sapata · « **Reply #45 on:** October 27, 2011, 12:06:38 AM »

Just though I'd add this one as well... first time i've ever seen on the film's backpaper.

Flippy · « **Reply #46 on:** October 27, 2011, 12:22:40 AM »

Ha - a coincidence I was just pulling out Verichrome pan backing papers for 127 so I could "reload" them with new film and thought "hey I should scan these instructions on them".

Now I don't have to!

I have a few exposure guides from the 1950s I'll have to dig out.

I use Sunny 16 pretty much exclusively. f16 for open sunlight. f8 for overcast days. f5.6 for open shade or rainy days. etc. For some reason I don't use f11

I tend to look at the sky to judge overall conditions, then look the shadows to judge subject conditions. I've even shot a few rolls of slides this way and they came out fine.

sapata · « **Reply #47 on:** October 27, 2011, 12:45:58 AM »

Quote from: Flippy on October 27, 2011, 12:22:40 AM

Ha - a coincidence I was just pulling out Verichrome pan backing papers for 127 so I could "reload" them with new film and thought "hey I should scan these instructions on them".

Now I don't have to!

I have a few exposure guides from the 1950s I'll have to dig out.

I use Sunny 16 pretty much exclusively. f16 for open sunlight. f8 for overcast days. f5.6 for open shade or rainy days. etc. For some reason I don't use f11 I tend to look at the sky to judge overall conditions, then look the shadows to judge subject conditions. I've even shot a few rolls of slides this way and they came out fine.

I had problems with a lot of pictures underexposed, I guess it wasn't THAT sunny to use f16

Here's an example... straight out of the scanner (B&W scanned as colour neg), the histogram is almost empty of information and they're all on the very left of the chart.

Flippy · « **Reply #48 on:** October 27, 2011, 01:02:46 AM »

It may not have been very sunny. I usually think of sunny 16 being based off of the sun at noon. Obviously in the morning and in the evening, even if the sun is visible in a clear sky - there's going to be less light falling on things. That may have been the case with you?

This was shot at 9AM: and I used f5.6 even though the sky was clear and the sun was visible

Anyway here's some more old guides:

Kodachrome (1950s I think)

Ansco and Kodak films, circa 1952

Cee-Ay 35 booklet, 1949.

sapata · « **Reply #49 on:** October 27, 2011, 10:51:30 AM »

Quote from: Flippy on October 27, 2011, 01:02:46 AM

Kodachrome (1950s I think)

HA!
Like the sun "smiling" at the first one

...opposite to the angry snowman

Quote from: aoluain on July 31, 2011, 10:22:03 PM

Here is one I got from an expired roll of phototec400 . . .

Author Topic: Sunny 16 Rule (Read 40629 times)

Terry