Soap - I chose not to flip the scan as it would not represent the print if I did. A bit like with wetplate and tintype processes, it would feel wrong to use a digital method to 'correct' an integral characteristic.
Mike - pre or post won't make any difference, both do an identical job. I didn't do a test strip as I did the flashing in camera. I often flash film in the same way if the subject brightness range is too great to be recorded using a normal exposure - works well when shooting in woods in bright light for example. The idea is to expose to non image forming light to get the film or paper to only just respond, so you are looking for the least amount of light that makes the film/paper respond to just above total black. The best way is to use a total diffusion filter, take a light Reading through it, then reduce this by 4 stops (either by time or using the aperture control) then make the exposure through the filter. Then remove the filter and expose to the scene as you would normally. The contrast range will be compressed. This is also called a zone 1 pre/post flash exposure if you want to get all Ansel about it.
