Filmwasters
Which Board? => Main Forum => Topic started by: Diane Peterson on July 17, 2017, 08:05:21 PM
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Someone wrote a great tutorial on processing color film a few years back and I had printed it and used it a few times...now I find myself wanting to process some color and can't find the info..Does anyone know who wrote this information and where I can find it again?
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Hi Diane!
Was it this article?
http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=4442.0 (http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=4442.0)
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Thank you very much Francois! I really appreciate your help!
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You're welcome!
So, is it sunny these days in Portlandia?
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There are times given for 45, 38, 30 and 25 °C, I interpolated the graph down to 20 °C and it works fine at all "regular" room temps not only with a selfmade dev but also with "readymades". Here is the graph:
http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=8224.msg109499#msg109499 (http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=8224.msg109499#msg109499)
In fact, C-41 can be very simple. The only downside imho is that the devs working solution only keeps for some weeks or 4 -5 months at best.
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I do have a pretty silly question regarding negatives, not only C41 but in general. Whenever I take night pictures, I have issues cutting my negatives into strips for scanning as the lines between frames, indicating the separation, are basically gone so sometimes I've cut half a frame thinking it's just the end. Any advice?
Thanks!
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I do have a pretty silly question regarding negatives, not only C41 but in general. Whenever I take night pictures, I have issues cutting my negatives into strips for scanning as the lines between frames, indicating the separation, are basically gone so sometimes I've cut half a frame thinking it's just the end. Any advice?
Thanks!
There are 8 sprocket holes for each frame. If you can figure out where one frame begins, then you can count holes and cut at #8 (or between 8 and 9, or at whatever 'position' on or between holes is appropriate). I have used this method and it works if you are careful.
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7f/135_film_perforations.jpg)
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I do have a pretty silly question regarding negatives, not only C41 but in general. Whenever I take night pictures, I have issues cutting my negatives into strips for scanning as the lines between frames, indicating the separation, are basically gone so sometimes I've cut half a frame thinking it's just the end. Any advice?
Thanks!
I have a splicer for 35mm movie film that I use to cut negatives. With some cameras the holes line up perfectly at the frame break but I haven't tried it with every camera I have. I don't know if there is a standard built into cameras for lining up sprocket holes to the frame location but there is with movie film. The splicer has dimples to position the sprocket holes so you can just chop a nice straight line. I also have the same problem finding where that line is sometimes.
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I find that a dedicated film cutter with built-in light is a very good investment. They are not very expensive either.
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I don't know if there is a standard built into cameras for lining up sprocket holes to the frame location but there is with movie film.
I don't know either, but my guess is no just based on my experience counting sprocket holes. Sometimes I cut through the hole and sometimes between them. Actually, there might be a standard, but my problem comes in at the end of the roll. It usually isn't a full wind, so the sprocket ends at some arbitrary position and when I start the next roll that is the position of the sprocket relative to the first frame. I'm not sure my thinking is correct there. Just trying to rationalize my sprocket belief system.
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One of the usual tricks is to photograph a couple of reference frames at the start of the roll and go from there.
Most cameras that use the sprockets are pretty reliable, but all don't exactly use the same spacing. And some like certain Canon models don't use the sprockets at all. And some just use them for cocking the shutter... It's hard to draw a general rule in those cases but in most cases it's even for a given camera... but then again I have a Steinette that gives increasingly long interframe spacing as you go through the roll...
As for the sprockets changing place when you wind... they should pretty much return to their original state when you wind back....... maybe
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I know my Leica IIIa lines up the sprocket holes perfectly for the splicer. Maybe that has something to do with the fact that Leica originally made their 35mm cameras to use movie film.
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I also guess it has something to do with the camera's quality. I wouldn't expect the sprockets to be as perfect on a vivitar uws as on a Leica!